Function:

I am a visual artist and woodworker creating functional and character filled furniture and accessories using the many techniques I have accumulated over the years. I received my BFA in 1998 and have since done fine art, finish carpentry, cabinet installation, and faux finishing. I have been doing original furniture design and custom woodwork since 2010.
My goal and purpose is to combine these elements and skills to make functional beautiful furniture that is inviting as well as aesthetically pleasing.

Sunday, July 31, 2011

Experimental Myrtle stump coffee table with reclaimed clear fir top. Sold.


Same deal with this little princess here, only this stump of myrtle is much heavier.







These pieces of fir were formerly stair treads in an old house in West Linn, circa 1940.

Experimental Red Cedar stump coffee table with reclaimed clear fir top. $150.00

I hauled this stump of red cedar out of the river months ago. Quite the transformation.

I realize these tables are really weird and totally not for everybody but these stumps called to me and I answered.



So after mixing my custom whitewash I realized my oil paints are basically straight oil pigment. Made a blackwash, or black stain from urethane and ivory black.

These pieces of fir were formerly stair treads at an old house in West Linn, circa 1940. 




Sunday, July 10, 2011

16"x16" Live edge burly maple entry way table. Sold.

The top is burly maple, the legs are salvaged driftwood hemlock. No screws, just dowel rods and glue, kicking it old school.



Sunday, June 19, 2011

Reclaimed Doug Fir and Live edge Cedar coffee table $495.00

These 6 pics are more recent, a little better lighting and a tripod. I noticed that this post was getting some views, and that it still had the old pics up. I've been using this table in my living room, and it has stood up to beer and wine spills, dog fuckery, as well as everyday wear and tear. Still looks the same as when I built it a year ago. Super stout, heavy, and heavy duty.






The top for this table was a true 2x12 of doug fir 18' long. I pulled it outta the river and dried it out, as chronicled in older posts.

Awesome grays and pinks come out of  the fir when sanded or planed tastefully. 

A happy accident, one of my dowel rods, a reclaimed wooden ladder rung is visible in the end cut. 


Joining the table legs and the slab

So the first step of this is to predetermine the location of the leg mounts, I want to seal the bottom, but I'd like to keep the positions where the legs meet the table free from urethane so I can get a really good glue contact.

I think this layout works, kind of have to balance out the profiles since they are all unique.

Just taping off the leg locations, then will hit it with some sealer.

Brought it inside, mainly because once the legs are on, I won't be able to lift it or move it by myself.

I start with drilling the holes for the legs, starting with a small pilot hole and then working my way up to 1/2 inch.

I transfer the pattern to the slab and repeat the process.

I did a dry fit and then glue them all up and hammer into place. Each leg has a different profile, so they are all different.

Ready for the hammer.

I check each one for square to the slab, and add a screw here and there where it needs it.

Two down, two to go...

Ok, I got them all in place. I'm gonna flip her over and take a few quick photos and then put it upside down again and leave it clamped up overnight.

Saturday, June 18, 2011

Tabletop Progress continued...

After applying a coat of urethane yesterday, I let it dry overnight and today begin the glazing process. This is the same treatment that I did on the driftwood shelves and I have a feeling it will become a trade mark of my reclaimed wood pieces.

After a liberal application of the glaze, basically pull it back off with a rag and let it hang out in the imperfections.

The finished product from one angle,

here's from the other side.

Thursday, June 16, 2011

Tabletop Progress continued...

I let the slab sit all clamped down to the sawhorses for well over a week, nearly two, and injected all the seams with copious amounts of wood glue. There was same twisting and racking as they dried all the way out so now I have to address the glue blobs on the end. I decided the easiest and quickest way would be to square up and trim at least a quarter inch off each end. 

Then I resand with 150 grit to make sure the grain in the top is open and not sealed with glue.

Then I bring it back inside and hit it with a coat of whitewash.

After that is dry I hit it with a second coat. Meow I will let this dry overnight and the next step is a coat of polyurethane to lock the whitewash in so I can do my dark glazing over it, and then wipe it back so it only stays in the low spots.